James Long AW14
For autumn/winter 2014, JAMES LONG has been inspired by primitive sci-fi and cosplay – the fantastical world of “costume play” – to create a collection of strict futurism and abstraction.
Quilted padded outerwear sculpts the body, with different size quilting highlighted by trim, with compartmentalised fabrics an important theme throughout. Each of these quilted bombers are reversible, with the effect of the padding visible through mesh on the other side.
The ribbon is woven through a leather mesh bomber to create an effect almost like knitting. Indeed mesh occurs across the collection, especially in trousers like jogging bottoms, where two layers of mesh are placed over grey jersey, the effect of the shifting light optical.
JAMES has abstracted and correlated shapes from images to create the season’s pattern, which appears on embroidered sweatshirts, printed crewneck knits, polo neck knits and leather jackets.
A jacquard of denim has the pattern of the collection’s mesh and is used in trousers, jackets and tops, sometimes washed, sometimes rubberised. The denim appears contrasted with other panels of mesh on baseball boots made in collaboration with KURT GEIGER LONDON.
The collection builds to a strict whole with its own inherent rules – there are no shirts, and colours rarely stray from blue, white, black, red and grey. Once again, music has been specially written and performed by SIMON MILNER of IS TROPICAL.