South Tyrol Experience Day 3 – Bressanone / Brixen

My third day of the South Tyrol Italy experience took me to the city of Bressanone or Brixen. The previous two days I had experienced some of the best South Tyrol offers in scenery, hikes, culinary mountain food and luxury hotels, now it was time to leave the Dolomites behind and experience some city life. Brixen is more South and lower so the temperatures are higher which makes it an excellent wine-growing region. Part of the third day would be a visit to a winery, this was to complete the overall luxury experience.

South Tyrol is a part of Italy where most of its 500,000 speak German, this is due to the fact that it used to be part of Austria before the first World War. Walking around this part of Italy you notice how clean and wealthy it is, in fact, it is one of the wealthiest areas of Italy and Europe. The South Tyroleans enjoy a large degree of self-government from Italy, they can set their own taxes and spend accordingly. This wealth has made South Tyrol a perfect holiday destination as you can find amazing food with the highest concentration of Michelin starred restaurants in Italy, beautiful scenery and luxury accommodation. South Tyrol is a super clean and organised holiday destination, it is like Switzerland but without the Swiss prices.

South Tyrol is a super clean and organised holiday destination, it is like Switzerland but without the Swiss prices.

Bressonone / Brixen

The final day of of this trip was a stay in the city of Brixen, a beautiful town of 20,000 inhabitants,  at the confluence of the Eisack and Rienz rivers. This town, with a nice historic centre dates back from 800 BC but got first mentioned around 901. Its main sights are the 10th century cathedral, the Hofburg which is a Renaissance Bishop’s Palace, and the Rodeneck Castle which is outside the city.

Stay – Goldener Adler Hotel

I stayed at the Goldener Adler hotel which is a hotel in a 500 hundred year old building on the edge of the old town next to the Eisack river. On the outside the hotel has a yellow castle like facade and it blends well with the rest of the architecture around. From the hotel it is only a 2 minute walk to the main cathedral square of Brixen.

The posh rooms featured modern or classic decor and antiques. All rooms came with free Wi-Fi, and flat-screen TVs. The breakfast buffet was free and was served in the Gothic courtyard, weather allowing, or otherwise in a laid-back lounge. There was a cozy cafe and bar with a vaulted ceiling, which at our night was showing the world cup football game between Italy and Germany, with the German speaking South Tyroleans supporting Italy 100%. This hotel also had a rooftop terrace which offered excellent city views.

Details

• Website: www.adlerbrixen.com/
• Address: Adlerbruckengasse, 9, 39042 Brixen, Bozen, Italy
• Phone: +39 0472 200621

Eat – Restaurant Finsterwirt

After all the mountain food I had the first two days of the South Tyrol trip I was now eating in town at restaurant Finsterwirt. This restaurant was located in a several centuries-old inn in the city centre. On entering the restaurant I noticed the unique ambiance in the antique wood-panelled Stube rooms. I also liked the open glass kitchen where you could see the chefs at work.

It was a balmy night and my food was served at a balcony overlooking the cosy inner courtyard terrace. Luckily it was covered as it was poring down with rain later in the evening. The food here was very much South Tyrolean mixed with Italian. I had speck as a starter and goat cheese ravioli with dumplings as the second dish. The main course was deer and the dessert was mixed cakes which of course had to have the strudel, this one was made of apricots. The execution of the food was brilliant and the portions where perfect not to feel bloated at the end of the dinner. This was a popular restaurant in the summer so make sure you reserve.

Details

• Address: Domgasse, 3, 39042 Brixen, Bozen, Italy
• Phone: +39 0472 835343

Do – Pacherhof Winery

The Pacherhof winery was about 9 kilometer north from Brixen and was situated in the Eisack valley overlooking the Dolomite Mountains. The winery dated back from 1142 and was well established. The area also had an hotel which dated back 200 years. Yes wine tourism was already well established a long time ago. I arrived around 11 in the morning and was told by the tour guide that between 10 and 12 is the best time for wine tasting as our taste buts are most receptive. Lucky me.

The wine tour started in the little courtyard with a Sylvaner an elegant white wine with a fresh aroma and scents of pineapple and banana. Pacherhof due to its northern location in Italy and its altitude of 600-700 meters, only makes white wines. The next wine a Müller Thurgau was served whilst walking through the fields of grapes, this one was my favourite. It was fresh and had an aromatic flavour with some spicy tones.

The tour finished in the cellar where I tried the Gewürztraminer which was completely different from the ones you get in the Alsace and Mosel regions. Still fruity and floral this one was less sweet and had acidity and a slightly bitter finish.

Details

• Website: www.pacherhof.com
• Address:Vicolo Pacher, 1, 39040 Varna BZ, Italy
• Phone: +39 0472 835717

Do – Kloster Neustift

Kloster Neustift which I could see from the Pacherhof winery was my next destination. This monastery dates back from 1140 when Hartmann was appointed bishop of Brixen. This monastery which has now a winery, boarding school, church and convention centre is a lovely place to walk around and soak up its history.  The school and the growing of herbs and fruit along the wine make this monastery economic self sufficient. Unfortunately I did not get a chance to taste the wines but they have scooped many international awards.

Details

• Website: www.kloster-neustift.it
• Address: Via Abbazia, 1, 39040 Varna Bozen, Italy
• Phone: +39 0472 836189

Eat – Foodparc Brixen – Brix 0.1

This was the end of my three day culinary luxury South Tyrol experience and this time I had one more stab at some more food and drinks. This time it was at the newly opened trendy and hip Brix 0.1 restaurant. A very beta Internet name, which felt beta as it had just opened three weeks before. All the trendy people from Brixen flocked down here to this modern designed rusty metal finished restaurant in the heart of the local park.

This restaurant was setup by two chef-entrepreneurs Ivo Messner and Philipp Fallmerayer. These two chefs have learned from the star chefs and cooked around the world in Asia, Australia, Dubai and Switzerland. I was keen to see what this blend of cooking experience in a trendy setting would taste like. First a had to start with a drink and what better way to have one more Hugo.

Food was tasting lovely and not pretentious with everything well prepared. My favourite was the tuna tartare. Antipasti and primi piati are around €15 on average with desserts about €8, all in all not bad value for the trendiest place in Brixen.

Details

• Website: www.brix01.com
• Address: Fischzuchtweg, 17, 39042 Bressanone Bozen, Italy
• Phone: +39 0472 268371
• South Tyrol

This article was part of a press trip to South Tyrol in Italy. The trip was sponsored by South Tyrol Tourism. For more information about South Tyrol, Italy visit www.suedtirol.info.